{"id":901,"date":"2017-11-28T06:40:31","date_gmt":"2017-11-28T05:40:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.20000miles.pl\/?p=901"},"modified":"2018-01-01T04:59:36","modified_gmt":"2018-01-01T03:59:36","slug":"sabah-i-sarawak","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.20000miles.pl\/index.php\/2017\/11\/28\/sabah-i-sarawak\/","title":{"rendered":"Sabah i Sarawak"},"content":{"rendered":"

Park Danum Valley okaza\u0142 si\u0119 zbyt skomplikowany logistycznie aby zrobi\u0107 go w wersji bud\u017cetowej dla naszej czw\u00f3rki (czyli zamiast wyda\u0107 3k na osob\u0119 spr\u00f3bowa\u0107 wyda\u0107 3k za ca\u0142o\u015b\u0107 – w teorii do zrobienia). Min\u0119li\u015bmy si\u0119 z busem jad\u0105cym do stacji, a kolejny mia\u0142 by\u0107 dopiero po weekendzie. Naogl\u0105dawszy si\u0119 zwierzak\u00f3w w Sukau postanowili\u015bmy odpu\u015bci\u0107 i jecha\u0107 dalej – kierunek Kota Kinabalu i okolice. Na sam szczyt nie zamierzamy wchodzi\u0107. My\u015bl\u0119, \u017ce to jeszcze za du\u017co na ma\u0142e nogi Szymona, ale wok\u00f3\u0142 pono\u0107 du\u017co fajnych tras, b\u0119dzie ekstra.<\/p>\n

Baz\u0105 wypadow\u0105 do parku Kinabalu by\u0142o miasteczko Ranau. Pierwsze podej\u015bcie okaza\u0142o si\u0119 fiaskiem. Kiedy dojechali\u015bmy do bramy parku la\u0142o ju\u017c nieziemsko. \u015aciana wody bez perspektyw zmian na lepsze. Przemoczeni niemal do majtek, postanowili\u015bmy ponowi\u0107 pr\u00f3b\u0119 nast\u0119pnego dnia. A \u017ce to akurat Szymona urodziny, to jeszcze poranne wygibasy z tortem niespodziank\u0105 i balonami. Nasz dziki cz\u0142owiek, kt\u00f3ry deklaruje, \u017ce zamieszka w puszczy amazo\u0144skiej jak doro\u015bnie, sp\u0119dzi\u0142 urodziny w przepi\u0119knym lesie r\u00f3wnikowym oraz ogrodzie botanicznym ogl\u0105daj\u0105c rekordzist\u00f3w \u015bwiata – najwi\u0119kszy na \u015bwiecie mchy i najmniejsze orchidee, jak r\u00f3wnie\u017c imbir (nie wiedzia\u0142am, \u017ce imbir ma tyle odmian!), betel, mi\u0119so\u017cerne kapturnice i dzbaneczniki. Nie obesz\u0142o si\u0119 bez deszczu i pijawek,\u00a0 przy kolejnym spotkaniu ju\u017c nie wydaj\u0105 si\u0119 takie straszne \ud83d\ude09<\/p>\n

Miasto Kota Kinabalu jest stolic\u0105 stanu Sabah, niespecjalnie pi\u0119kne, ale te\u017c po lekturze internetu spodziewa\u0142am si\u0119, \u017ce b\u0119dzie gorzej. Mo\u017ce jedynie biegaj\u0105ce swobodnie po ulicy szczury i wielkie karaluchy powodowa\u0142y lekkie wzdrygni\u0119cie, ale po tym jak metrowy waran wylaz\u0142 za nami z kana\u0142u deszczowego w Nunukan to coraz mniej dziwi mnie miejska fauna.<\/p>\n

Odwiedzili\u015bmy stanowe muzeum, imponuj\u0105ce na wej\u015bciu szkieletem wieloryba (oraz histori\u0105 pozyskania tego\u017c) oraz mn\u00f3stwem informacji dotycz\u0105cym historii i kultury ludzi tu \u017cyj\u0105cych – tradycyjne domy, stroje (tkaniny!), zwyczaje (\u0142owcy g\u0142\u00f3w!), instrumenty, na kt\u00f3rych mo\u017cna by\u0142o pogra\u0107, itp. Wy\u017csze pi\u0119tro zajmowa\u0142a wystawka o przyrodzie. Z jednej strony mogli\u015bmy sobie u\u015bwiadomi\u0107, jak wiele wyj\u0105tkowych zwierzak\u00f3w uda\u0142o nam si\u0119 ju\u017c zobaczy\u0107, z drugiej strony zrobi\u0142o mi si\u0119 strasznie smutno, \u017ce my i nasze dzieci jeszcze mogli\u015bmy zobaczy\u0107 je biegaj\u0105ce wolno, ale je\u015bli nadal tak sprawnie b\u0119dziemy niszczy\u0107 \u015bwiat wok\u00f3\u0142 siebie, to dzieci moich dzieci b\u0119d\u0105 mog\u0142y obejrze\u0107 co najwy\u017cej t\u0105 smutn\u0105 wystawk\u0119 wypchanych zwierz\u0105t.<\/p>\n

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Po Kinabalu ruszyli\u015bmy do Miri. Okaza\u0142o si\u0119, \u017ce najtaniej b\u0119dzie tam… polecie\u0107. Drog\u0105 powietrzn\u0105 przenie\u015bli\u015bmy si\u0119 wi\u0119c do stanu Sarawak, wynaj\u0119li\u015bmy auto i znowu mijaj\u0105c nie ko\u0144cz\u0105ce si\u0119 plantacje palmy olejowej dotarli\u015bmy do Niah Caves<\/a>. \u015aciana zieleni z poprowadzon\u0105 nad wod\u0105 tras\u0105, w ko\u0144cu ogromne jaskinie, z mn\u00f3stwem ptak\u00f3w, kt\u00f3rych gniazda uchodz\u0105 za przysmak w kuchni chi\u0144skiej. Gniazda zbiera si\u0119 dwa razy w roku i gotuje si\u0119 z nich zup\u0119. M\u00f3j ambiwalentny stosunek do kuchni chi\u0144skiej jeszcze si\u0119 pog\u0142\u0119bi\u0142, mam wra\u017cenie, \u017ce Chi\u0144czycy \u00a0s\u0105 w stanie ugotowa\u0107 wszystko, a im bardziej zagro\u017cone, tym pyszniejsze i dro\u017csze.<\/p>\n

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Jaskinie by\u0142y ogromne, kapa\u0142a z nich woda, \u015bmierdzia\u0142o troch\u0119 zwierz\u0119cymi odchodami. Z omsza\u0142ego hangaru jaskini trzeba przej\u015b\u0107 czarnym tunelem na drug\u0105 stron\u0119. Szymon zaliczy\u0142 stracha, bo kompletnej ciemno\u015bci wynurzy\u0142y si\u0119 poka\u017ane czarne owady, przypominaj\u0105ce skrzy\u017cowanie karalucha z konikiem polnym. Trzymali\u015bmy si\u0119 wi\u0119c za mocno spocone r\u0119ce i tupali\u015bmy g\u0142o\u015bno, \u017ceby zniech\u0119ci\u0107 je do bli\u017cszych kontakt\u00f3w, a ca\u0142a wycieczka uros\u0142a do rangi wydarzenia z elementami grozy.<\/p>\n

W ostatniej jaskini trafili\u015bmy na szcz\u0105tki malowide\u0142 naskalnych naszych praprzodk\u00f3w, ale najlepszy w ca\u0142ej tej wyprawie by\u0142 fakt, \u017ce byli\u015bmy tam absolutnie sami!<\/p>\n

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Bez \u017calu opuszczali\u015bmy Miri i nocnym autobusem przetoczyli\u015bmy si\u0119 na zachodni kraniec wyspy do Kuching. Kucing to po malajsku kot. Kocie miasto ma swoje muzeum kot\u00f3w i kilka kocich pomnik\u00f3w, ale o tym nast\u0119pnym razem.<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Park Danum Valley okaza\u0142 si\u0119 zbyt skomplikowany logistycznie aby zrobi\u0107 go w wersji bud\u017cetowej dla naszej czw\u00f3rki (czyli zamiast wyda\u0107 3k na osob\u0119 spr\u00f3bowa\u0107 wyda\u0107 3k za ca\u0142o\u015b\u0107 – w teorii do zrobienia). Min\u0119li\u015bmy si\u0119 z busem jad\u0105cym do stacji, a kolejny mia\u0142 by\u0107 dopiero po weekendzie. Naogl\u0105dawszy si\u0119 zwierzak\u00f3w w Sukau postanowili\u015bmy odpu\u015bci\u0107 i […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":906,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[70,231,98,229],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-901","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-azja","category-borneo","category-dookola-swiata","category-malezja"],"yoast_head":"\nSabah i Sarawak - 20 000 Miles<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.20000miles.pl\/index.php\/2017\/11\/28\/sabah-i-sarawak\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"pl_PL\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Sabah i Sarawak - 20 000 Miles\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Park Danum Valley okaza\u0142 si\u0119 zbyt skomplikowany logistycznie aby zrobi\u0107 go w wersji bud\u017cetowej dla naszej czw\u00f3rki (czyli zamiast wyda\u0107 3k na osob\u0119 spr\u00f3bowa\u0107 wyda\u0107 3k za ca\u0142o\u015b\u0107 – w teorii do zrobienia). Min\u0119li\u015bmy si\u0119 z busem jad\u0105cym do stacji, a kolejny mia\u0142 by\u0107 dopiero po weekendzie. 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