{"id":856,"date":"2017-11-14T17:41:17","date_gmt":"2017-11-14T16:41:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.20000miles.pl\/?p=856"},"modified":"2017-11-18T08:26:17","modified_gmt":"2017-11-18T07:26:17","slug":"sukau-welcome-to-borneo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.20000miles.pl\/index.php\/2017\/11\/14\/sukau-welcome-to-borneo\/","title":{"rendered":"Sukau, witamy na Borneo"},"content":{"rendered":"

Indonezja nie bardzo chcia\u0142a nas wypu\u015bci\u0107. A to prom nam uciek\u0142, a to po\u0142\u0105czenia nie by\u0142o. W takich momentach zaczyna si\u0119 przygoda i jest najwi\u0119kszy sprawdzian dla naszego stada. Radzenia sobie w nieplanowanych sytuacjach i radzenie sobie z frustracj\u0105 swoj\u0105 i m\u0142odocianych. I co teraz, g\u0142odny jestem, siku-kupa, nudz\u0119 si\u0119, mam ci\u0119\u017cki plecak, daleko jeszcze? chcia\u0142bym ju\u017c wraca\u0107! a czy Wy w og\u00f3le wiecie, gdzie jedziemy i tym podobne kwiaty.<\/p>\n

Indonezja zd\u0105\u017cy\u0142a nas zm\u0119czy\u0107 i jednocze\u015bnie odcisn\u0119\u0142a g\u0142\u0119boki \u015blad w moich trzewiach. Nie wiem, jak reszta, ale ja wiem, \u017ce chc\u0119 tu wr\u00f3ci\u0107. Nieprawdopodobna r\u00f3\u017cnorodno\u015b\u0107 wysp, religii, przyrody – krajobraz\u00f3w, wulkan\u00f3w, ro\u015blin, zwierz\u0105t i miejsc do nurkowania, bajka! Sp\u0119dzili\u015bmy tu ponad 5 tygodni i ledwo musn\u0119li\u015bmy to, co Indonezja ma do zaoferowania.<\/p>\n

Przekroczyli\u015bmy malezyjsk\u0105 granic\u0119 w Tawau i przemieszczamy si\u0119 po Borneo ze wschodu na zach\u00f3d. Pierwszym przystankiem by\u0142o Sukau nad rzek\u0105 Kinabatangan. Zamieszkali\u015bmy z lokaln\u0105 rodzin\u0105, nasi gospodarze ju\u017c na start wsadzili nas wieczorem do \u0142\u00f3dki na nocne obserwowanie fauny. Kapoki, latarki i w drog\u0119! Moja mieszczuchowska osoba nie zd\u0105\u017cy\u0142a nawet pisn\u0105\u0107, \u017ce oto w\u0142a\u015bnie najbardziej szalona rzecz, na jak\u0105 si\u0119 porywam – p\u0142ywanie noc\u0105 we mgle w rozchybotanej \u0142\u00f3deczce po rzece z krokodylami. Tadam! Od razu pomy\u015bla\u0142am, co by powiedzia\u0142a moja mama na to i jak wiele niecenzuralnych wyraz\u00f3w nios\u0142oby si\u0119 w tej mgle. \ud83d\ude09<\/p>\n

W \u015bwietle latarki b\u0142yskaj\u0105 tylko wielkie oczy a wyobra\u017ania podpowiada mo\u017cliwe sensacyjne scenariusze. By\u0142o wspaniale! Powr\u00f3t do bazy, sen i pobudka o 5 na kolejn\u0105 wypraw\u0119 \u0142odzi\u0105. Dzie\u0144 wstaje b\u0142yskawicznie, ale na rzece jeszcze mg\u0142a nadaje ca\u0142emu miejscu magiczny klimat.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Nocne wypatrywanie ptak\u00f3w<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"\" \"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"
Nasz dom w Sukau<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Dzie\u0144 wstaje nad rzek\u0105 Kalibatangan<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Po obu stronach rzeki las i zatrz\u0119sienie zwierz\u0105t – makaki, orangutany, niezwyk\u0142e nosacze i dzioboro\u017cce, zimorodki, or\u0142y. Wp\u0142yniesz g\u0142\u0119biej w odnogi rzeki i widzisz, \u017ce\u00a0 d\u017cungli wok\u00f3\u0142 tak naprawd\u0119 jest niewiele, zaraz za ni\u0105 zasieki drut\u00f3w pod pr\u0105dem a potem nieko\u0144cz\u0105ce si\u0119 plantacje palmy olejowej. Wi\u0119kszo\u015b\u0107 drogi z Tawau obserwowali\u015bmy po\u0142acie wielkich plantacji – palmy, palmy i tylko palmy ci\u0105gn\u0105 si\u0119 po horyzont. Na plantacjach stosuje si\u0119 nawozy, kt\u00f3re sp\u0142ywaj\u0105 do rzeki i truj\u0105 ryby. Lokalni rybacy nie maj\u0105 z czego \u017cy\u0107, a i lokalne krokodyle nie maj\u0105 co je\u015b\u0107, wi\u0119c zdarzy\u0142o si\u0119 kilka sensacyjnych wypadk\u00f3w. Nigdy nie przypuszcza\u0142abym, \u017ce palmy mog\u0105 by\u0107 tak przygn\u0119biaj\u0105cym widokiem.<\/p>\n

\"Dzioboro\u017cec
Dzioboro\u017cec (Hornbill)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Nosacz (proboscis monkey)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Nosacze (proposcis monkeys)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
tutejsze Makaki w odr\u00f3\u017cnieniu od tych na Bali nie napastuj\u0105 odwiedzaj\u0105cych<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"\" \"\" \"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

W przerwie mi\u0119dzy wycieczkami \u0142odzi\u0105, wyprawiamy si\u0119 te\u017c do lasu pieszo. Oblani repelentem, skarpety naci\u0105gni\u0119te po pachy. Szczelnie zabezpieczeni przed pijawkami idziemy w krzuny. Po ca\u0142onocnej ulewie gor\u0105co, grz\u0105sko, \u015blisko i mokro, nie wiesz czy lepisz si\u0119 z powodu tego, \u017ce woda wisi w powietrzu, czy to w\u0142asny pot tak daje si\u0119 we znaki. Przyroda\u00a0 oszala\u0142a, wszystko wok\u00f3\u0142 jakby \u017cy\u0142o w nieustaj\u0105cym wy\u015bcigu, kto wi\u0119kszy i bardziej zielony.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"
W lesie pe\u0142no pijawek, tych ma\u0142ych wielko\u015bci 1cm i takich kilkakrotnie wi\u0119kszych.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"
W drzewie ukryte spa\u0142y nietoperze, nasz przewodnik i gospodarz Mus mia\u0142 niesamowite oko do wynajdywania zwierzak\u00f3w.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"\" \"\"Szukamy jeszcze s\u0142oni kar\u0142owatych, kt\u00f3re \u017cyj\u0105 tylko na Borneo, du\u017co mniejszych ni\u017c te, kt\u00f3re widzieli\u015bmy w Afryce, ale r\u00f3wnie zagro\u017cone. Podobnie zreszt\u0105 jak orangutany. Pierwszego dnia udaje nam si\u0119 wypatrze\u0107 jednego s\u0142onia, ale schowany w zaro\u015blach ani my\u015bli nam si\u0119 pokaza\u0107. W oddali s\u0142ycha\u0107 trzaski ga\u0142\u0119zi i porykiwania pobratymc\u00f3w. Postanawiamy wr\u00f3ci\u0107 w to samo miejsce o \u015bwicie. Woda jest g\u0142adka jak tafla jeziora, ma\u0142py skacz\u0105 po ga\u0142\u0119ziach, po s\u0142oniach ani \u015bladu. Mo\u017ce poza\u00a0 wydeptanym zej\u015bciem do wody i silnym zapachem odchod\u00f3w.<\/p>\n

\u015aniadanie jemy na \u0142odzi, na \u015brodku rzeki – placki ze s\u0142odkim fasolowym nadzieniem i jajka na twardo – Szymon m\u00f3wi, \u017ce to najlepsze \u015bniadanie w jego \u017cyciu. I chwil\u0119 potem, kiedy mamy ju\u017c wraca\u0107 s\u0142ycha\u0107 znowu ryk. Z jednej strony rzeki, potem z drugiej. Szuranie ga\u0142\u0119zi, sarkania… i nagle s\u0105! Stoj\u0105 dwa s\u0142onie na brzegu! Po chwili pokazuj\u0105 si\u0119 kolejne, z m\u0142odymi! I jeszcze kolejne… Po chwili przesz\u0142o dziesi\u0119\u0107 tych pi\u0119knych zwierz\u0105t przeprawia si\u0119 przez rz\u0119k\u0119. Gapimy si\u0119 jak zaczarowani, ca\u0142e zamieszanie trwa kilka, mo\u017ce kilkana\u015bcie minut.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"\"\"\"\"Po powrocie do domu ogl\u0105damy siebie dok\u0142adnie, pijawki przyczepiaj\u0105 si\u0119 wsz\u0119dzie i zupe\u0142nie nie chc\u0105 si\u0119 rozsta\u0107. Ugryzienie nie boli, za to krwawi mocno.
\nAle warto by\u0142o da\u0107 si\u0119 oble\u017a\u0107 i nawet pogry\u017a\u0107 w zamian za to, co widzieli\u015bmy.<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Indonezja nie bardzo chcia\u0142a nas wypu\u015bci\u0107. A to prom nam uciek\u0142, a to po\u0142\u0105czenia nie by\u0142o. W takich momentach zaczyna si\u0119 przygoda i jest najwi\u0119kszy sprawdzian dla naszego stada. Radzenia sobie w nieplanowanych sytuacjach i radzenie sobie z frustracj\u0105 swoj\u0105 i m\u0142odocianych. I co teraz, g\u0142odny jestem, siku-kupa, nudz\u0119 si\u0119, mam ci\u0119\u017cki plecak, daleko jeszcze? […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":865,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[70,231,98,229],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-856","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-azja","category-borneo","category-dookola-swiata","category-malezja"],"yoast_head":"\nSukau, witamy na Borneo - 20 000 Miles<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.20000miles.pl\/index.php\/2017\/11\/14\/sukau-welcome-to-borneo\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"pl_PL\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Sukau, witamy na Borneo - 20 000 Miles\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Indonezja nie bardzo chcia\u0142a nas wypu\u015bci\u0107. A to prom nam uciek\u0142, a to po\u0142\u0105czenia nie by\u0142o. W takich momentach zaczyna si\u0119 przygoda i jest najwi\u0119kszy sprawdzian dla naszego stada. Radzenia sobie w nieplanowanych sytuacjach i radzenie sobie z frustracj\u0105 swoj\u0105 i m\u0142odocianych. I co teraz, g\u0142odny jestem, siku-kupa, nudz\u0119 si\u0119, mam ci\u0119\u017cki plecak, daleko jeszcze? 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A to prom nam uciek\u0142, a to po\u0142\u0105czenia nie by\u0142o. W takich momentach zaczyna si\u0119 przygoda i jest najwi\u0119kszy sprawdzian dla naszego stada. Radzenia sobie w nieplanowanych sytuacjach i radzenie sobie z frustracj\u0105 swoj\u0105 i m\u0142odocianych. I co teraz, g\u0142odny jestem, siku-kupa, nudz\u0119 si\u0119, mam ci\u0119\u017cki plecak, daleko jeszcze? 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