{"id":2749,"date":"2018-09-12T05:27:53","date_gmt":"2018-09-12T03:27:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.20000miles.pl\/?p=2749"},"modified":"2018-09-12T05:27:53","modified_gmt":"2018-09-12T03:27:53","slug":"trudna-milosc","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.20000miles.pl\/index.php\/2018\/09\/12\/trudna-milosc\/","title":{"rendered":"Trudna mi\u0142o\u015b\u0107"},"content":{"rendered":"

Z tym Meksykiem mam tak, \u017ce albo mnie zachwyca, albo tak m\u0119czy, \u017ce zwia\u0142abym cho\u0107by dzisiaj. A potem wpadam na co\u015b, co znowu mi si\u0119 podoba. I tak w k\u00f3\u0142ko.<\/p>\n

Pierwszy raz wszyscy mamy jakie\u015b problemy zdrowotne – gor\u0105czki, katary, zatoki, rozstroje \u017co\u0142\u0105dka, bol\u0105ce trzewia, popsute kolano daje do pieca. Niby zwolnili\u015bmy tempo, ale kiedy wieczorem sprawdzam z\u0142e kilometry wychodzi na to, \u017ce znowu p\u0119k\u0142o ponad 10. No i te schody. Dlaczego wszystkie ruiny musz\u0105 sk\u0142ada\u0107 si\u0119 ze schod\u00f3w? Jako, \u017ce przeci\u0119tny Meksykanin jest ni\u017cszy od nas o g\u0142ow\u0119, wyz\u0142o\u015bliwiam si\u0119, \u017ce to musi by\u0107 jaka\u015b rekompensata za nikczemny wzrost, budowali te schody, \u017ceby na innych patrze\u0107 z g\u00f3ry. Kiedy ju\u017c si\u0119 pow\u015bciekam, zagryzaj\u0105c z\u0119by nad zbola\u0142ym kolanem i wdrapi\u0119 na te cholerne schody, widok z g\u00f3ry rekompensuje wszystko.<\/p>\n

Stolica Meksyku jest naprawd\u0119 wielka. Uda\u0142o nam si\u0119 upolowa\u0107 miejsce w samym centro historico. Pierwsze wra\u017cenie – morze, bezkresny morze dom\u00f3w. I bezkresne morze bazar\u00f3w. Ka\u017cda ulica Mexico city to nieko\u0144cz\u0105cy si\u0119 sznur stoisk. Troch\u0119 jak u nas w latach 80-tych, kiedy w Warszawie g\u0142\u00f3wne ulice zastanowione by\u0142y straganami ze wszystkim. Z jednej strony pi\u0119kne stare kamienice, poniszczone, zapuszczone. I murale, wsz\u0119dzie murale. Obowi\u0105zkowo z Frid\u0105 i matk\u0105 bosk\u0105 z Gwadelupy, ale przekr\u00f3j obraz\u00f3w bardzo szeroki. Nad tym wszystkim wisz\u0105 barchanowe gacie, maski luchador\u00f3w, kosmetyki, flagi, perfumy, bi\u017cuteria i b\u00f3g wie co jeszcze.<\/p>\n

\u015amierdzi g\u00f3wnem. Nerwowo ogl\u0105dam buty albo zastanawiam si\u0119 czy to z emocji nie kontroluj\u0119 zwieraczy, a mo\u017ce to kolejna iteracja sensacji \u017co\u0142\u0105dkowych. Ale nie! (Co za ulga). W ca\u0142ym Meksyku papier toaletowy wrzuca si\u0119 do kube\u0142ka, nie do sedesu. Nie wiem, czy to aromaty tych kube\u0142k\u00f3w czy kiepskiej kanalizacji, ale s\u0105 miejsca, \u017ce wieje g…roz\u0105. \ud83d\ude09<\/p>\n

W weekend ulicami centrum przelewa si\u0119 morze ludzi. Jest t\u0142oczno jak na koncercie. R\u00f3\u017cnica taka, \u017ce cz\u0119\u015b\u0107 uczestnik\u00f3w idzie wpatrzona w telefon i poluje na pokemony.<\/p>\n

Czasami t\u0142um uk\u0142ada si\u0119 w k\u00f3\u0142eczko, tyle tylko by zmie\u015bci\u0142o si\u0119 kilku muzyk\u00f3w i kwadrat pustej do przestrzeni do ta\u0144czenia. Muzyka jest wsz\u0119dzie, a tam gdzie si\u0119 pojawia na \u017cywo od razu znajdzie si\u0119 kto\u015b, kto ta\u0144czy. W parze. Muzyka jest zara\u017aliwa i je\u015bli postoj\u0119 cho\u0107 chwil\u0119, zaczynam si\u0119 buja\u0107, nie wa\u017cne czy graj\u0105 klasyk\u00f3w rocka czy lokalne przeboje.<\/p>\n

Opr\u00f3cz muzyki jest straszliwy ha\u0142as. Poza muzyk\u0105 na \u017cywo jest mn\u00f3stwo g\u0142o\u015bnik\u00f3w wystawionych na ulic\u0119. Ka\u017cdy gra swoj\u0105 nut\u0119, jakby jutra mia\u0142o nie by\u0107. W ka\u017cdej kawiarni czy jad\u0142odajni ryczy telewizor. Ci\u0105gle kto\u015b krzyczy, zachwala swoje towary i us\u0142ugi. Bu\u0142ki, \u015bwie\u017ce bu\u0142ki, teleeefooony. Albo pokaz fakira k\u0142ad\u0105cego si\u0119 na \u015brodku wagonu metra na t\u0142uczonym szkle, a chwil\u0119 p\u00f3\u017aniej wa\u0142ki do w\u0142os\u00f3w i wsuwki.<\/p>\n

Ten folklor poza tym, \u017ce m\u0119cz\u0105cy ma te\u017c sw\u00f3j szale\u0144czy urok, a mia\u0142by jeszcze wi\u0119kszy, gdyby ludzie si\u0119 u\u015bmiechali. Je\u015bli ju\u017c kogo\u015b poznasz – ludzie s\u0105 przemili. I bardzo pomocni, nawet je\u015bli s\u0142abo albo nie m\u00f3wi\u0105 po angielsku. Ale tak na ulicy ludzie si\u0119 gapi\u0105 cz\u0119sto w spos\u00f3b, kt\u00f3rego nie zazna\u0142am do tej pory w \u017cadnym innym kraju tej podr\u00f3\u017cy. Nie szukamy wra\u017ce\u0144, jeste\u015bmy czujni i w ci\u0105gu ca\u0142ego pobytu w stolicy zupe\u0142nie bezpieczni, ale niesmak pozostaje.<\/p>\n

Du\u017co smak\u00f3w za to jest w muzeach. Kr\u00f3lowa jest zachwycona. Czy to artes populares, czy muzeum antropologiczne, czy dom Fridy – czuj\u0119 si\u0119, jak dziecko, kt\u00f3re kto\u015b pu\u015bci\u0142 samopas po fabryce czekolady. Kt\u00f3ra to czekolada jest zreszt\u0105 (genialnym) meksyka\u0144skim wynalazkiem. \u00a0Nie wiem, jak ch\u0142opaki, ale czuj\u0119, \u017ce jeszcze tu wr\u00f3c\u0119.
\n\"\" \"\" \"\" \"\"\"\" \"\" \"\" \"\" \"\" \"\" \"\"\"\"\"\"<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Z tym Meksykiem mam tak, \u017ce albo mnie zachwyca, albo tak m\u0119czy, \u017ce zwia\u0142abym cho\u0107by dzisiaj. A potem wpadam na co\u015b, co znowu mi si\u0119 podoba. I tak w k\u00f3\u0142ko. Pierwszy raz wszyscy mamy jakie\u015b problemy zdrowotne – gor\u0105czki, katary, zatoki, rozstroje \u017co\u0142\u0105dka, bol\u0105ce trzewia, popsute kolano daje do pieca. Niby zwolnili\u015bmy tempo, ale kiedy […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2732,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[299,98,359],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2749","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-ameryka-pn","category-dookola-swiata","category-meksyk"],"yoast_head":"\nTrudna mi\u0142o\u015b\u0107 - 20 000 Miles<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.20000miles.pl\/index.php\/2018\/09\/12\/trudna-milosc\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"pl_PL\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Trudna mi\u0142o\u015b\u0107 - 20 000 Miles\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Z tym Meksykiem mam tak, \u017ce albo mnie zachwyca, albo tak m\u0119czy, \u017ce zwia\u0142abym cho\u0107by dzisiaj. A potem wpadam na co\u015b, co znowu mi si\u0119 podoba. I tak w k\u00f3\u0142ko. Pierwszy raz wszyscy mamy jakie\u015b problemy zdrowotne – gor\u0105czki, katary, zatoki, rozstroje \u017co\u0142\u0105dka, bol\u0105ce trzewia, popsute kolano daje do pieca. 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