{"id":1797,"date":"2018-03-27T18:11:04","date_gmt":"2018-03-27T16:11:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.20000miles.pl\/?p=1797"},"modified":"2018-04-21T08:50:47","modified_gmt":"2018-04-21T06:50:47","slug":"god-bless-you-maam-o-duzej-rybie-i-troche-o-swiadomej-turystyce","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.20000miles.pl\/index.php\/2018\/03\/27\/god-bless-you-maam-o-duzej-rybie-i-troche-o-swiadomej-turystyce\/","title":{"rendered":"God bless you Ma\u2019am. O du\u017cej rybie i troch\u0119 o \u015bwiadomej turystyce. Filipiny cz.1"},"content":{"rendered":"

Filipiny to ponad siedem tysi\u0119cy wysp. Trudno podj\u0105\u0107 decyzj\u0119, kt\u00f3re wybra\u0107 \u2013 jeste\u015bmy jak te os\u0142y mi\u0119dzy \u017c\u0142obami. Zaczynamy od wyspy Bohol. Ma\u0142e miasteczko Jagna, jak chyba wszystkie na wyspie sk\u0142ada si\u0119 z g\u0142\u00f3wnej ulicy id\u0105cej wzd\u0142u\u017c wybrze\u017ca, du\u017cego ko\u015bcio\u0142a, okaza\u0142ego budynku miejskiego, wielofunkcyjnego zadaszonego boiska i koniecznie targu. Wszystkie miasteczka s\u0105 takie same, wsz\u0119dzie te\u017c kr\u0105\u017c\u0105 jeepneye (kolorowe pseudobusy) i tricycle (odpowiednik tuktuka). No w\u0142a\u015bnie – ko\u015bcio\u0142y i tricycle. Po p\u00f3\u0142 roku w\u015br\u00f3d wyznawc\u00f3w Buddy lub Allaha wyl\u0105dowali\u015bmy w kraju bardzo katolickim, afirmuj\u0105cym mi\u0142o\u015b\u0107 do Boga i wszystkich \u015bwi\u0119tych na ka\u017cdym kroku. Wi\u0119kszo\u015b\u0107 tuktuk\u00f3w ma wypisane wznios\u0142e sentencje o Bogu i mi\u0142o\u015bci. W wielu miejscach publicznych i domach stoj\u0105 figury \u015bwi\u0119tych, na drzwiach wisz\u0105 oprawione modlitwy.
\nPraktycznie wszyscy m\u00f3wi\u0105 po angielsku. Mo\u017ce dlatego, \u017ce po tagalog jest to drugi urz\u0119dowy j\u0119zyk. Z kolei tagalog przypomina mi mieszanin\u0119 indonezyjskiego z hiszpa\u0144skim. Filipiny by\u0142y w ko\u0144cu hiszpa\u0144sk\u0105 koloni\u0105, potem ameryka\u0144sk\u0105 a jak spojrz\u0119 na map\u0119 na po\u0142udnie zobacz\u0119 Indonezj\u0119 \u2013 wszystko si\u0119 zgadza. Nie mog\u0119 tylko przywykn\u0105\u0107, \u017ce wszyscy zwracaj\u0105 si\u0119 do nas per Sir i Madam, czuj\u0119 si\u0119 jak z\u0142e bia\u0142e mzimu, wielki kolonizator (chocia\u017c mam cich\u0105 nadziej\u0119, \u017ce to po prostu zwrot grzeczno\u015bciowy, niekoniecznie uni\u017cony).<\/p>\n

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Widoki bajkowe, niebo znowu niebieskie jak farbka, krajobraz palmowy bardzo odmienny od tego na Borneo, jadowicie zielone pola ry\u017cowe i kiczowate zachody s\u0142o\u0144ca. Ale jest te\u017c bardzo biednie, podobnie jak by\u0142o biednie w Kambod\u017cy. Od pierwszego dnia wiem, \u017ce b\u0119d\u0119 chcia\u0142a tu wr\u00f3ci\u0107.<\/p>\n

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\n\"\" Mieszkamy na uboczu, nurkujemy, snorklujemy i za\u017cywamy s\u0142o\u0144ca. Wynajmujemy samoch\u00f3d, \u017ceby zobaczy\u0107 kawa\u0142ek wyspy i zaczyna si\u0119 zabawa. Chcemy zobaczy\u0107 tarsiery \u2013 to takie male\u0144kie nocne stworzenia nale\u017c\u0105ce do naczelnych, z wielkimi nieruchomymi oczami. S\u0105 bardzo wra\u017cliwe na ha\u0142as i s\u0142abo znosz\u0105 niewol\u0119. Okazuje si\u0119, \u017ce owszem s\u0105 r\u00f3\u017cne \u2018sancruary\u2019 i \u2018conservatory\u2019, umiejscowione wygodnie na trasie, ale przeje\u017cd\u017caj\u0105c obok widzisz, \u017ce to raczej zoo albo park rozrywki, niewiele maj\u0105cy wsp\u00f3lnego z ochron\u0105 zwierz\u0105t. Trzeba troch\u0119 poszuka\u0107 w internetach, ale uwierzcie mi \u2013 warto.<\/p>\n

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\"\"Ja wiem, \u017ce jest biednie i wiem, \u017ce wielu ludzi \u017cyje z turystyki. Ale widz\u0119 te\u017c, \u017ce s\u0105 miejsca, gdzie ludzie zaczynaj\u0105 rozumie\u0107, i\u017c wi\u0119ksz\u0105 warto\u015bci\u0105 (dla nich konkretnie i w monetach) b\u0119dzie zwierz\u0119 \u017cywe i na wolno\u015bci. Tak mieli\u015bmy ze zwierzakami na Borneo, ze s\u0142oniami i delfinami w Kambod\u017cy, i teraz z rekinami wielorybimi i tarsierami na Filipinach. Kto bez winy niech pierwszy rzuci kamieniem, sama si\u0119 podnieca\u0142am spotkaniem 1:1 z delfinem w delfinarium. Dzi\u015b bym tego nie zrobi\u0142a za nic w \u015bwiecie. Wiem, \u017ce nigdy nie dam si\u0119 nam\u00f3wi\u0107 na przeja\u017cd\u017ck\u0119 na s\u0142oniach, nie robi\u0119 sobie zdj\u0119\u0107 z jaszczurami, w\u0119\u017cami, ma\u0142pami i co tam jeszcze wym\u0119czonego podstawiaj\u0105. Niedawno zmar\u0142 ostatni m\u0119ski przedstawiciel nosoro\u017cca bia\u0142ego, na \u015bwiecie zosta\u0142y tylko dwie samice. S\u0142onie znikaj\u0105 w zastraszaj\u0105cym tempie. Wci\u0105\u017c mam poczucie, \u017ce moje dzieci ogl\u0105daj\u0105 \u015bwiat, w kt\u00f3rym za 10-20 lat b\u0119d\u0105 tylko eksponaty wypchanych zwierz\u0105t. Taki eksponaty widzieli\u015bmy w jednym z muze\u00f3w na Borneo i to by\u0142 bardzo przygn\u0119biaj\u0105cy widok. Tak jak z Dodo na Mauritiusie.<\/p>\n

No i dlatego staramy si\u0119 podr\u00f3\u017cowa\u0107 \u015bwiadomie. Nie je\u017adzimy na s\u0142oniach, tylko je k\u0105piemy i karmimy. Wielkoryb\u00f3w, delfin\u00f3w i rekin\u00f3w szukamy tam, gdzie \u017cyj\u0105 na wolno\u015bci, wkalkulowuj\u0105c ryzyko, \u017ce uda si\u0119 lub nie. Nie pojechali\u015bmy do Oslob, kt\u00f3re na Filipinach jest najpopularniejszym punktem do spotkania z rekinami wielorybimi. Zamiast tego t\u0142ukli\u015bmy si\u0119 12h na s\u0105siedni\u0105 wysp\u0119 Leyte, bo tak, tam podobno w\u0142a\u015bnie o tej porze roku mamy 60% szans, \u017ce je spotkamy. Trudno jest opisa\u0107 wra\u017cenia z takiego spotkania, mia\u0142am ochot\u0119 wrzeszcze\u0107 ze szcz\u0119\u015bcia.<\/p>\n

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\"\"\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \"\"
\n\"\"<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Filipiny to ponad siedem tysi\u0119cy wysp. Trudno podj\u0105\u0107 decyzj\u0119, kt\u00f3re wybra\u0107 \u2013 jeste\u015bmy jak te os\u0142y mi\u0119dzy \u017c\u0142obami. Zaczynamy od wyspy Bohol. Ma\u0142e miasteczko Jagna, jak chyba wszystkie na wyspie sk\u0142ada si\u0119 z g\u0142\u00f3wnej ulicy id\u0105cej wzd\u0142u\u017c wybrze\u017ca, du\u017cego ko\u015bcio\u0142a, okaza\u0142ego budynku miejskiego, wielofunkcyjnego zadaszonego boiska i koniecznie targu. Wszystkie miasteczka s\u0105 takie same, wsz\u0119dzie […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":1752,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[70,98,287],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1797","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-azja","category-dookola-swiata","category-filipiny"],"yoast_head":"\nGod bless you Ma\u2019am. 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Ma\u0142e miasteczko Jagna, jak chyba wszystkie na wyspie sk\u0142ada si\u0119 z g\u0142\u00f3wnej ulicy id\u0105cej wzd\u0142u\u017c wybrze\u017ca, du\u017cego ko\u015bcio\u0142a, okaza\u0142ego budynku miejskiego, wielofunkcyjnego zadaszonego boiska i koniecznie targu. 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