{"id":1645,"date":"2018-03-08T05:14:42","date_gmt":"2018-03-08T04:14:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.20000miles.pl\/?p=1645"},"modified":"2018-03-08T05:16:37","modified_gmt":"2018-03-08T04:16:37","slug":"na-koncu-swiata-w-tajlandii","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.20000miles.pl\/index.php\/2018\/03\/08\/na-koncu-swiata-w-tajlandii\/","title":{"rendered":"Na ko\u0144cu \u015bwiata"},"content":{"rendered":"

P\u00f3\u0142noc Tajlandii o tej porze wygl\u0105da romantycznie, ale wcale taka nie jest. Magiczne mg\u0142y spowijaj\u0105ce okolice to nic innego, tylko smog powsta\u0142y na skutek wypalania p\u00f3l. Codziennie budz\u0119 si\u0119 z drapi\u0105cym gard\u0142em, szara czapa spowija wszystko i bez b\u00f3lu mo\u017cesz patrze\u0107 w s\u0142o\u0144ce. Jak tylko uda mu si\u0119 przebi\u0107.<\/p>\n

Chiang Mai jest fajne, ale chcemy dalej. Jedni m\u00f3wi\u0105 – je\u017adzie do Pai, tam jest wspaniale i leniwie, inni – to nie jest Pai, jakie by\u0142o jeszcze kilka lat temu, teraz jest zadeptane przez backpackers\u00f3w, jed\u017acie do Mae Hong Son. Kiedy pytamy o bilety do Sop Pong – pani zdziwiona pyta, po co chcemy tam jecha\u0107 – przecie\u017c tam nic nie ma. Patrzymy na siebie z poczuciem, \u017ce wybrali\u015bmy w\u0142a\u015bciwy kierunek.<\/p>\n

Jedziemy minivanem przez s\u0142ynne 700 zakr\u0119t\u00f3w. B\u0142ogos\u0142awi\u0119, \u017ce trafi\u0142 nam si\u0119 \u0142agodny (jak na tajskie warunki) kierowca, i \u017ce wzi\u0119\u0142am tabletk\u0119 na chorob\u0119 lokomocyjn\u0105. Mimo to doje\u017cd\u017cam ze \u015blizgawk\u0105 w \u017co\u0142\u0105dku. Jedna ulica i w ca\u0142ej wsi trzy kwatery, niespecjalnie nawet ob\u0142o\u017cone. Little Eden jak nazwa wskazuje okazuje si\u0119 ma\u0142ym, g\u0119stym ogrodem z ukrytym w \u015brodku basenem, a z ty\u0142u rzeczk\u0105. W dzie\u0144 ponad 30 stopni, po zachodzie s\u0142o\u0144ca temperatura gwa\u0142townie spada do ok 10., woda w basenie zimna. Ale i tak przez pierwsze dni Szymona mo\u017cna wyci\u0105gn\u0105\u0107 z wody dopiero kiedy ma fioletowe usta i szcz\u0119ka z\u0119bami.<\/p>\n

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No a potem\u00a0 jedziemy zobaczy\u0107 jaskini\u0119 Tham Lod. Okazuje si\u0119, \u017ce jaski\u0144 jest trzy, s\u0105 wielkie, pi\u0119kne i imponuj\u0105ce. U wylotu jaskini o zachodzie s\u0142o\u0144ca codziennie odbywa si\u0119 spektakl. Setki, tysi\u0105ce jerzyk\u00f3w najpierw kr\u0105\u017c\u0105 nad jaskini\u0105 a potem wlatuj\u0105 do niej z nieprawdopodobnym \u015bwiergotem, z kolei z jaskini wylatuj\u0105 nietoperze. Siedzimy jak zaczarowani, w \u017cyciu nie widzia\u0142am takiej masy ptak\u00f3w i nigdy nie s\u0142ysza\u0142am takiego ha\u0142asu generowanego przez ptaki.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\" \"\" \"\" \"\" \"\"\u00a0 \"\"<\/p>\n

Do domu wracamy ju\u017c po ciemku, wyobra\u017ania moja i Szymona w lesie ma du\u017ce pole do popisu, zw\u0142aszcza na polu wielonog\u00f3w. Podobnie jak w Kambod\u017cy jest du\u017co paj\u0119czyn z r\u00f3wnymi okr\u0105g\u0142ymi otworami, czasami te otwory maj\u0105 centymetr, czasami trzy. Czasami nic w nich nich nie wida\u0107, a czasem mignie br\u0105zowe odn\u00f3\u017ce, na widok kt\u00f3rego w\u0142osy mi staj\u0105 d\u0119ba. Moja arachnofobia ma si\u0119 znakomicie.
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Idziemy te\u017c na dwudniowy treking po okolicy, z zamiarem spania w wiosce. Jeste\u015bmy pod granic\u0105 z Birm\u0105, w tej okolicy \u017cyje du\u017co plemion – Lahu, Lanna, Ahka, Hmong, czy najbardziej znani Kareni. Omijamy ludzkie skanseny, przez pi\u0119\u0107 godzin marszu nie spotkali\u015bmy \u017cywego ducha. Krajobraz jesienny, ale s\u0142o\u0144ce pali szyje i ramiona. Nasz przewodnik wycina z bambusa kubki i naczynie na wod\u0119, gotuje herbat\u0119 i taka herbata po\u015brodku niczego, z widokiem na g\u00f3ry smakuje najlepiej na \u015bwiecie.\u00a0 Gospodarze nie m\u00f3wi\u0105 po angielsku, ale nadrabiamy wszyscy u\u015bmiechami i r\u0119kami. Dzieci znajduj\u0105 z Szymonem szybko platform\u0119 porozumienia i po chwili biegaj\u0105 za pi\u0142k\u0105 po podw\u00f3rku, kury gdacz\u0105c przera\u017aliwie uskakuj\u0105 na drzewa. Mamo, mamo widzia\u0142em ma\u0142e \u015bwinki, chod\u017a zobacz jakie s\u0105 s\u0142odkie!<\/p>\n

Wieczorem dzieci przychodz\u0105 si\u0119 z kwiatami i \u015bwieczkami zawini\u0119tymi w ro\u017cek z li\u015bci bananowca. Ci\u0105gn\u0105 Szymona ze sob\u0105. Idziemy razem i okazuje si\u0119, \u017ce trafili\u015bmy na wa\u017cne \u015bwi\u0119to buddyjskie – Parinirwana, obchodzona uroczy\u015bcie data \u015bmierci Buddy. Jeste\u015bmy z Szymkiem sensacj\u0105 w \u015bwi\u0105tyni, wszystkie dzieci zezuj\u0105 na niego bez przerwy. Opat u\u015bmiecha si\u0119 do nas i za chwil\u0119 razem z innymi drepczemy wok\u00f3\u0142, ka\u017cde ze swoj\u0105 \u015bwieczk\u0105.<\/p>\n

Rano jest lodowato, para leci z ust, nasza gospodyni przynosi gor\u0105cy ry\u017c, kapust\u0119 sma\u017con\u0105 z czosnkiem i zup\u0119. Kobiety z okolicznych wiosek w kolorowych strojach i w pomalowanymi twarzami przyje\u017cd\u017caj\u0105 po zakupy. Zbieramy si\u0119 na kolejne pi\u0119\u0107 godzin marszu, a ju\u017c wiem, \u017ce to miejsce zostanie w mojej g\u0142owie na d\u0142ugo.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\" \"\" \"\" \"\" \"\" \"\" \"\" \"\" \"\" \"\"\u00a0 \"\" \"\" \"\" \"\" \"\" \"\" \"\" \"\" \"\"\"\"<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

P\u00f3\u0142noc Tajlandii o tej porze wygl\u0105da romantycznie, ale wcale taka nie jest. Magiczne mg\u0142y spowijaj\u0105ce okolice to nic innego, tylko smog powsta\u0142y na skutek wypalania p\u00f3l. Codziennie budz\u0119 si\u0119 z drapi\u0105cym gard\u0142em, szara czapa spowija wszystko i bez b\u00f3lu mo\u017cesz patrze\u0107 w s\u0142o\u0144ce. Jak tylko uda mu si\u0119 przebi\u0107. Chiang Mai jest fajne, ale chcemy […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":1684,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[70,98,261],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1645","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-azja","category-dookola-swiata","category-tajlandia"],"yoast_head":"\nNa ko\u0144cu \u015bwiata - 20 000 Miles<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.20000miles.pl\/index.php\/2018\/03\/08\/na-koncu-swiata-w-tajlandii\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"pl_PL\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Na ko\u0144cu \u015bwiata - 20 000 Miles\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"P\u00f3\u0142noc Tajlandii o tej porze wygl\u0105da romantycznie, ale wcale taka nie jest. Magiczne mg\u0142y spowijaj\u0105ce okolice to nic innego, tylko smog powsta\u0142y na skutek wypalania p\u00f3l. Codziennie budz\u0119 si\u0119 z drapi\u0105cym gard\u0142em, szara czapa spowija wszystko i bez b\u00f3lu mo\u017cesz patrze\u0107 w s\u0142o\u0144ce. Jak tylko uda mu si\u0119 przebi\u0107. 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Magiczne mg\u0142y spowijaj\u0105ce okolice to nic innego, tylko smog powsta\u0142y na skutek wypalania p\u00f3l. Codziennie budz\u0119 si\u0119 z drapi\u0105cym gard\u0142em, szara czapa spowija wszystko i bez b\u00f3lu mo\u017cesz patrze\u0107 w s\u0142o\u0144ce. Jak tylko uda mu si\u0119 przebi\u0107. 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